An athlete's height is one of the main factors to consider when choosing skis. The ideal length of this sports equipment, as well as ski poles, depends on this parameter.

At the same time, it is important to take into account that modern models, which are made from new materials, are shorter than those used in previous decades.

Therefore, in that case if you want to buy skis for yourself or your child, you should not focus on numbers that were previously considered generally accepted.

How to choose the right skis and poles for height?

Usually, classic skis must exceed the height of the athlete by 20-30 cm. Skate models much shorter, here the excess is no more than 15 cm.

The ideal ski length for two different skiers of the same height can vary considerably- it depends on the weight, stiffness of the material and riding style.

The higher the weight, the longer and stiffer the skis should be.

Ski types

In order for skiing to be successful, it is important not only to choose the right size skis and poles.

First of all, you need to decide which skis to choose, what type of this sports equipment you need, and for this you need to know where and how are you going to ride.

For the classic move

Skis for classic skiing- the best choice for those who often go skiing. In the middle part of such models, special notches are made that provide excellent grip on snow.

For skating

These skis are designed to move in skating style. when an athlete walks along a wide snowy road, and the technique of his movement is similar to the movements of a skater.

Skating this way is somewhat more difficult than the classic style.

Mountain

Alpine skis are designed for downhill skiing from the slopes and for skiing. They come in several types, each of which is designed for a specific style of riding:

• skis for carving;
• for freeride;
• freestyle;
• ski touring and ski mountaineering.

Cross-country

Cross-country skis are perfect for country walks and easy hikes over short distances.

At the same time, it must be borne in mind that they are intended primarily for moving on already trampled snow, while tourist models are better suited for virgin lands.

For a child

If you want to involve children in skiing, the choice of children's skis and sticks needs to be approached even more carefully.

After all, the child does not have so much strength, and if the model is chosen incorrectly, he will probably not like skating.

Choosing ski boots and bindings

For newbies systems with automatic fastening of boots are well suited. Advanced skiers Prefer to use manual fixing.

First you need to find comfortable shoes, and then choose bindings that fit them. In order not to be mistaken with the size, you need to purchase thermal socks for skiing in advance and measure the shoes already in them.

At the same time, it must be borne in mind that there are boots for classics, boots for skating and combined shoes that will suit both styles of skating.

Choosing skis is not such an easy task at all as it might seem at first glance.

However, if you arm yourself with knowledge in advance and approach the matter with all seriousness, making the right decision will not be difficult.

Zermatt, St. Moritz and others: for everyone!

With well-chosen skis by type and length your skiing or your children's skiing will be held with maximum comfort and safety and will definitely bring a lot of positive emotions.

How to choose the right skis, boots and bindings is described in the video:

Greetings blog readers! Winter this season is changeable, someone pleases with an abundance of snow, and someone - not so much. If your area is always full of snow, it is worth considering such physical activity as skiing.

Buying a good kit is not as easy as it seems. In the article I will tell you how to choose skis so that they please you for a single season. We will talk about cross-country and mountain models, as well as hunting and children's models. It would seem that it’s easier - you come to the store and the consultant will select the right option. But, as practice shows, you do not always know what to answer sellers' questions. Therefore, before going to the store or when buying on the Internet, you need to know the basic parameters by which skis are selected for walking.

Most often, lovers of a healthy lifestyle opt for cross-country and walking skis. They are inexpensive, suitable even for those who take their first steps in winter sports. Let's first talk about how to choose the right skis for an adult, and then consider how to choose them for a child.

By the way, do regular blog readers remember our health marathon? Let me remind you a little about him. Thanks to him, last spring, for the whole month, my children and I overcame distances on skis around the lake every day, which is almost five kilometers, cutting several circles a day.

Now you can get out of the mode of celebrating holidays and take care of your health again. Try to master skiing or remember physical education lessons at school! I promise you will love it!

For a beginner, professional options are useless. Why overpay if you are going to ride mainly on weekends?

Cross-country skiing for beginners is usually selected according to the following parameters:

• Material.
• Rigidity.
• Riding style.
• The weight and height of a person.

Completely wooden products are becoming less and less common today. More often on sale are plastic models with a wooden core. All-plastic products are usually more expensive. For a novice lover of an active lifestyle, standard options are suitable - plastic + wood. They are light, durable and slide well.

Also, manufacturers today offer products with notches under the block. This addition is more common on children's kits. Why are notches needed? First of all, such models are designed for a classic move so that the foot does not slip back. Such inventory can not be lubricated. What are the downsides? Notches are not suitable for skating, the speed of riding will be lower, you will be more tired.

But if you are not chasing records and are not going to master skating, notched solutions are fine for you.

What is your riding style?

The second important point that you should decide before buying is the style of riding. On sale today you can find the following options:

• For a classic move.
• For skating.
• Combined.

If you run only "classics", then choose the appropriate kits. If sometimes you skate or plan to master it, take a closer look at the universal options. Of course, it is difficult to achieve sports records on combi models, but they are quite suitable for walking.

If you only skate and do not like the traditional course at all, then choose skating skis. If finances allow, you can buy two sets. Then the enjoyment of riding will be higher. For amateurs and beginners, I advise you to watch training lessons on skating:

What is the visual and technical difference between the models for the “skate” and the “classics”?

• Skate skis are shorter and stiffer.
• Skate toes are shorter and rounder.
• Skate models are more durable.

The edging for classic models and for skating is also different. Combined options combine the characteristics of both modifications. A beginner can take a closer look at such products.

After you have decided on the style of riding, choose a kit according to weight and height. People with average weight are the easiest. But athletes with a large physique will have to choose more carefully. For "heroes" products must be of high quality, not cheap and durable.

For a classic move, the length of the skis is usually calculated as follows: 20-25 cm are added to their own height. Products that are equal to height or slightly higher are suitable for the “skate”. The easiest way to navigate the tables. For example, there is such a table by height:

According to such tables, it is easy to choose skis. But as practice shows, sometimes these recommended parameters can be violated. Focus on yourself. If there is an opportunity to try out different sets at the box office or borrow them from friends, take advantage of this. Remember the length that provides the most comfortable ride and choose such kits. For example, short skis are sometimes easier to handle, especially downhill.

Hardness and softness

An equally important parameter when buying skis is their stiffness. Here you need to focus on the weight of the athlete. Selection desired model by weight of a person is as follows:

• Stand on the skis with both feet in the block area. If there is a distance between the floor and the block, then such a model is not rigid enough.
• Stand with both feet on one ski for some distance. If there is no clearance between the sliding surface and the floor, it will not work either. Choose a product with less rigidity.

Why pay attention to this parameter? The fact is that too soft skis will make it difficult to move along the track, and too hard skis will slip. Yes, and the return will obviously not please you. In a word, being a beginner and picking up products with inappropriate rigidity, you are unlikely to fall in love with ski trips.

Sports should be fun, so don't ignore this technical feature. For a classic move, it is better to select models with medium and low stiffness. And for the "horse" in any case, you need more rigid products. If, when skiing "classic" at the moment of repulsion, the ski does not bend to the end, then the equipment is not selected correctly.

We select sticks

It turns out that sticks also need to be selected according to height. For the "classic" sticks up to the armpits are suitable. But for the "horse" it is better to choose longer models. For free style, choose sticks 15-20 cm smaller than your height. The handle and loop should also be comfortable. It is important to free your hand at any time. The risk of injury is especially high on slopes in the forest, when the stick can get stuck in the roots of trees. Therefore, the stick should be easily removed from the hand.

Also, the weight of the sticks affects the comfort of riding. Modern sticks are light and durable, choose them.

Also, when buying, pay attention to boots and bindings. Shoes for skating, freestyle skating are usually high. Modern boots are warm and comfortable. A beginner can pick up shoes in a budget option. It is better to measure them in a woolen or other warm sock, so that even in a light frost you can not deny yourself walking.

Soviet-style mounts, 75 mm, can still be bought in inventory stores. They were replaced by more convenient options: NNN, SNS, NIS. For a classic style, you can still get by with more affordable 75 mm mounts, but for “combi” and ridge models it is better to opt for modern solutions. Enjoy more riding. The mount will not touch the snow, which will positively affect the speed.

The choice of a ski set for a child must also be approached responsibly, despite the fact that he quickly grows out of it. When buying a kit for a child, pay attention to the following parameters:

• For a preschooler, skis should be short.
• After 7 years, follow the formula: height + 10-15 cm.
• The height of the sticks should be slightly above the chest.
• For the youngest skiers, soft bindings based on straps and elastic bands and semi-rigid ones are suitable.
• For schoolchildren, you can already buy hard bindings with special boots.

Today in stores you can find ready-made kits for little skiers. Bindings can be both for ordinary shoes and for special shoes.

How to choose a set of skis

Alpine skiing is even easier to pick up than cross-country skiing. Choose kits for beginners, focusing on your weight and height. Another important parameter: riding style. It is better for a beginner to opt for universal models of medium width. Universal models are marked all-mountain.

A novice conqueror of the mountain slopes can choose inexpensive models, especially if you can’t often go to a ski resort during the season.

forest skiing

Hunting and forest skiing is suitable for those who like to walk on virgin lands, on winter hikes and for hunting and fishing.

Such wide skis are wooden and plastic, with notches. The latter are not so sensitive to moisture, however, more slippery than wooden products. Plastic skis are lighter than wood skis, but are more suitable for warm weather. When it's cold, they roll back.

On wide skis you can go on an exciting hike through the taiga. Read about the amazing place -. You can ride there only on wide models.

You can’t really focus on the height of forest skis, but shorter models are better in maneuverability. When choosing hiking kits, more attention should be paid to bindings. Cable semi-rigid mounts are better than straps.

And in conclusion, watch an informative video on how to choose skis:

I hope these simple tips have helped you choose skis for winter walks. Get up on skis with the whole family, teach children to healthy lifestyle life! We usually have a lot of snow in Siberia, you can ski for several months in a row, which is what we use. I will be glad to your responses and questions!

For beginners, walking models that do not have a specific riding style are considered the best option.

In terms of their capabilities and characteristics, they are much inferior to professional ones, but their low cost makes them attractive specifically for beginners.

A distinctive feature is the presence of notches on the sliding surface, replacing the preliminary preparation of skis. Do not require preparation (lubrication) before riding.

The best-selling touring model for beginner adult skiers. It features easy handling and high stability.

Does not require lubrication due to the presence of notches. Primary colors are red and black. They are produced according to the technologies of the Austrian company Atomic in Bulgaria.

• stable sliding characteristics;
• do not require lubrication due to the presence of "scales" (notches);
• high quality deflection;
• accuracy in management;
• a light weight;
• secure fasteners;
• unlimited temperature range of use;
• universal - work in any snow conditions, including poorly prepared tracks;
• Unisex - suitable for men and women.

• higher price in comparison with similar models of other brands;
• designed mainly for walking in the forest;
• not suitable for professional results;
• require drying and storage in a dry ventilated area;
• they are afraid of ultraviolet radiation and heating to temperatures above 60 ° C.

Features Atomic Motion 46 Grip

• pleasure skating in a classic way;
• outdoor fitness;
• have a straight geometry that allows a beginner to quickly master the technical skills of riding.

• geometry (toe-waist-heel, mm) - traditional narrow skis (46-46-46);
• size (length) - 179-207 cm;
• pair weight - 1400 g (186 cm);
• composition - synthetic materials (Densolit core, lightening the weight of the ski) + plastic;
• notch system - in the zone of the G2 Sincro block (scales) on the sliding surface, which neutralizes recoil and allows you to ski without ointment;
• sliding surface - 1500;
• stiffness is low;
• color - black-red-white or black-blue-white.

Atomic Motion 46 Grip

• automatic bindings Auto Universal (SNS) installed in the optimal position on the ski;
• laser marking for each pair with information about the allowable weight of the skier.

• ski bag;
• ski poles Lite (combination of carbon and fiberglass), Nordic Motion Comp;
• Motion 25 (SNS compatible, water-repellent front cuff to keep feet dry in all weathers)
• Nordic bag with adjustable strap and thermoflask.

Designed for the sweeping herringbone motions that are the basis of the skating style. They have greater strength than classic models, due to the significant load that falls on them while riding.

This type of movement is mainly used for climbing uphill and cornering on wide, well-prepared and compacted tracks.

Review Fischer models RCS SK Plus Stiff NIS

The ultimate skating shoe for adults and advanced skaters. Part of the 2015/2016 season collection. In the 2016/2017 season, she came out in an updated version of the Fischer RCS SK Plus Stiff NIS Hole 2017 with a hole in the toe.

Produced by the Austrian company Fischer in Austria. The main colors are black, yellow, white. They are distinguished by a blunt toe, require careful preparation.

• arrow-shaped profile that improves ski performance;
• reinforced edging, prolonging the service life;
• high fracture strength;
• the sliding surface works ideally in wet snow conditions at temperatures from -5 ° C and above;
• high accuracy of selection of a pair of skis according to similar parameters;
• toe weight reduced by 5 g;
• minimal vibration.

• high price;
• require professional technical skills;
• the choice of ski boots is limited by the NNN binding system.

Features Fischer RCS SK Plus Stiff NIS

• professional sport competitions and skating races.

• toe - 41 mm, waist - 44 mm, heel - 44 mm;
• length - 172-192 cm;
• weight - 1090 g (187 cm);
• core - carbon honeycomb Air Core Carbon containing 80% air;
• toe and heel - ultralight from special laminates that reduce weight and vibration;
• mounting method - NIS;
• stiffness - stiff - adjusts to the stiffness of the track (for soft - the toe and heel are made soft, for hard - hard);
• sliding surface treatment - Finish Ferst, including grinding, applying the Plus structure using natural diamond, pouring with base paraffin;
• computer control of rigidity;
• edges - Power Edge reinforced, guaranteeing the durability of skis;
• color - black-yellow-white.

• fasteners are missing;
• platform for bindings NIS NNN, allowing you to quickly install and remove bindings from the ski.

Accessories from Fischer

• ski poles SpeedMax;
• Xcelerator Skate 2.0 NIS mounts;
• case for a pair of skis;
• Velcro for easy carrying of skis;
• cross-country ski boots for skating RCS Carbon Lite Skating;
• shoe bag.

Designed for athletes and amateurs weighing more than 100 kg.

A distinctive feature is the increased stiffness of the skis, which is selected in accordance with the weight of the skier using a special flex tester, which is available in all serious specialized stores.

Review of the Salomon Carbon Skate Lab Carbon Blue

The latest development of the French manufacturer Salomon for professionals and experts in skating style. They have an extra stiff last with a special setting for heavy skiers with ultra-low weight skis, as well as dynamic stiffness control.

Called "the future of cross-country skiing", they opened a new level in the world of cross-country skiing. Produced in Austria.

• ultra light weight;
• extra-rigid last for heavy skiers;
• digital control of rigidity;
• full carbon construction;
• increased slip phase;
• more powerful propulsion and increased energy transfer due to the ultra-responsive carbon forward shifted last;
• soft toe and heel with hard twist;
• choice of ski structure options - universal (fresh snow) and for any snow conditions.
• versatility - designed to slide on any tracks, regardless of their condition and air temperature.

• only for advanced amateurs and professionals;
• high price.

Features Salomon Carbon Skate Lab Carbon Blue

• cross-country skating at the level of world championships;
• gliding effortlessly in any weather.

• weight - 980 g (187 cm);
• length - 182-192 cm;
• gender - unisex;
• core - lightweight cellular Stiff Nomex;
• transparent sliding surface G5;
• protection of the sliding surface with a film;
• stiffness control - digital functionality D2FC;
• toe and heel - low profile, minimal thickness;
• structure - universal WCU or on request AM7 (universal) or AC5 (colder).

• without fasteners.

Accessories from Salomon

• ski bindings SNS Pilot Sport Combi;
• ski bag;
• shoe bag;
• ski boots S-Lab Overboot;
• ski poles Equip 100 Carbon.

For active rest children 4 years of age and older. Differ in stability, the increased width and bright design. For the little ones from 4 to 7 years old, skis come with bindings, boots and poles.

The main purpose of children's models is to teach a child to stand confidently and move on skis.

Overview of the Fischer Snowstar NIS Kids

Walking skis for the little ones. They have a bright beautiful design. Available in several colors: blue, green, pink (for girls and boys).

They have installed NNN bindings and a notch system for better grip. Designed for classic riding. Development of the Austrian company Fischer, produced in Ukraine. Part of the 2015/2016 collection.

• wide stable profile;
• Special notches Crown that improve grip and make it easier to climb uphill;
• sliding surface treatment for any weather conditions;
• core with a selected system of air channels that increase strength and evenly distribute weight;
• easy glide on rough trails.

• require storage in a dry place away from heat sources;
• manual fasteners.

Features Fischer Snowstar NIS Kids

• to gain skills in classic skiing and outdoor activities.

• toe - 54 mm, waist - 48 mm, heel - 52 mm;
• size - 90-140 cm;
• weight - 0.69 kg (110 cm);
• materials - wood and multicomponent plastic composites;
• core - Air Channel;
• special notches "scales" - Crown on the sliding surface, preventing the ski from slipping back;
• base - Sintec;
• gender - for girls and boys;
• color - black-pink-white, black-green-white and black-blue-white.
• mounting method - NIS.

• installed NNN mounts (XC Snowstar NIS).

Accessories Fischer Snowstar NIS Kids

• ski bag;
• boot case;
• children's running shoes;
• ski poles Sprint;
• ski poles RCS Junior;
• RaceCode ski cuffs.

They are produced as a separate type of "back country". When choosing, not only the weight of the skier in the suit and equipment is taken into account, but the weight of the backpack that he carries on his shoulders.

For the price, models for tourism are in the same price niche as walking ones. Designed for short and long walks on rough trails.

A product of the Austrian company Atomic, one of the leaders in the ski equipment market. First appeared in the 2011/2012 collection as a universal option for men and women (unisex).

The design of the skis is updated every year, in the 2015/2016 season, separate women's models appeared, featuring a stylish design. In women's models, the letter "W" was added to the marking.

Lightweight, easy-to-handle skis allow you to hike for several hours without getting tired. Perceptible comfort when riding in any conditions.

• reliable and easy to use;
• wide ski geometry for balance and stability;
• the ability to ride in any conditions due to innovative clutch technology;
• light weight due to Densolite core;
• ease of control and maneuverability even in the most difficult conditions;
• downhill stability;
• do not require lubrication of the sliding surface;
• a special zone that allows you to move in the classic way without the use of ointment;
• the nose of the ski does not break, as in wooden models;
• suitable for beginners.

• not always available in the distribution network due to the increased demand for the model;
• low hardness.

Features Atomic Motion 52 Grip

• short and long walks in nature in different conditions.

Specifications Atomic Motion 52 Grip

• toe - 52 mm, waist - 47 mm, heel - 49 mm;
• size - 177-205 cm;
• weight - 1.14 kg (177 cm);
• material - plastic, composite materials, wood;
• Grip and NowaxGlide G2 Syncro clutch technology;
• sliding surface - BI 1500 + Universal grinding;
• lubrication system - Nowax system;
• fastening mechanism - NIS;
• 3D Touring profile with lightweight toe and heel.

• without fasteners;
• no mounting platform.

• ski mounts Auto Universal;
• ski bag Nordic 3;
• Velcro for transportation;
• shoe bag;
• boots for NNN bindings;
• ski poles Motion Lite Grey.

Overview of the Rossignol X-IUM Skating WCS model

Skate style model for professional skiers from the French company Rossignol.

Produced at the factory of the same name in France (pre-cup model X-IUM) or in Spain (top-end X-IUM WCS) with three profile options (S1 - frost, S2 - universal, S3 - wet snow).

The pre-cup professional model and the top model differ in weight (the first for 186 cm is 20 g lighter). Models made in Spain can be customized with pre-cup branding.

• increased rigidity;
• suitable for heavy skiers (up to 110 kg in size 192);
• the possibility of selecting individual stiffness with marking the name of the customer;
• light weight thanks to Nomex honeycomb core
• universal S2 profile for all temperatures and snow conditions;
• low block and average length of the contact zone with snow;
• twist resistance;
• excellent stability;
• longitudinal adjustment of the mount relative to the center;
• stability technologies ActiveCap, SupraEdge, making skiing predictable;
• NIS mounting mechanism - easy to install and adjust.

• limited edition, you can buy a pre-cup model only on order;
• high price.

Features Rossignol X-IUM Skating WCS

• professional skating races in any weather.

• geometry - 40-44-43-43 mm;
• size - 173-192 cm;
• weight - 1100g (186 cm);
• sliding surface - K7000, universal with a double groove for more stable directional stability;
• core - lightweight Nomex honeycomb with a fiberglass shell and thin wooden walls;
• gender - unisex;
• type of skating - skating;
• material - composite, high molecular weight polyethylene with low coefficient of friction, 3D Carbon Profile;
• colors are red-black.

• without fasteners.

Accessories by Rossignol

• mounts - X-Celerator SSR NIS, X-Celerator Skate NIS;
• ski poles XT 700;
• ski skating boots Rossignol X-IUM Carbon Premium;
• ski bag;
• shoe bag;
• Velcro for transportation.

Designed for professional athletes. All innovative developments appear in this group. They are also called the top or top model. Professional skis undergo the strictest step-by-step production control.

Models for professional skiers are made to order with the name and surname of the athlete marked. The cost is in the highest price category. Their task is to help in achieving maximum results and victories in competitions of various levels.

Professional model from the Norwegian manufacturer Madshus for skating. Appeared in the collection 2014-2015, in 2015-2016 came out with an updated design.

It differs from models of other well-known brands in the absence of a core with a honeycomb structure. Instead, it uses PR 100X Acryl core polyurethane foam, which makes the ski a little lighter and stronger than models with a honeycomb core.

• high strength of the model (it is a carbon fiber stocking impregnated with resin and filled with foam);
• additional torsional rigidity obtained by applying two additional layers of carbon fiber;
• suitable for ski tracks with dense and fresh snow;
• unique 3D design for excellent glide thanks to the side cutout;
• high torsional rigidity;
• perfectly matched stiffness diagram and geometry for efficient force transfer;
• the possibility of applying the structure for special weather conditions (D5 - for warm universal from +1 to -10 ° С and D4 - cold universal);
• NIS platform - fast installation, no drilling required, and easy movement on the ski back and forth when weather conditions change.

• high price;
• skis with a specific structure are made to order in Norway;
• require proper fitting.

Features Madshus Race Champion Nanosonic Carbon Skate

• world-class skating competitions.

• toe - 44 mm, waist - 43 mm, heel - 44 mm;
• size - 175-195 cm (in increments of 5 cm);
• weight - 1000 g (190 cm);
• gender - unisex;
• level of training - professional;
• deflection under the weight of the skier - medium;
• mounts - NIS7;
• core - PR 100X (multilayer carbon construction);
• sliding surface - P190 Nano Cold without notches.

• without fasteners.

Accessories by Madshus

• X-Celerator Skate NIS mounts;
• cuffs for a bunch of Red skis;
• ski boots Nano Skc, Champion Nano Carbon Classic;
• ski poles Nano Carbon;
• shoe bag;
• ski bag;
• Race Hat Red.

Issued for lovers of cross-country skiing. This type is also called the mass option of cross-country skiing for people who prefer an active lifestyle.

For the manufacture of professional models, more expensive innovative materials are used than for universal skis, so they are lighter in weight. Properly selected for the weight of the user, universal skis can serve for many years.

Universal skis for amateurs and athletes, allowing you to ski in any weather in skating and classic style. They have a special geometry of the sidecut, which helps to gain riding skills in any move.

Products of the Austrian brand Fischer are produced in Ukraine.

• sliding surface of the level of professional racing;
• lightweight core that reduces the weight of the skis and allows skiing in any weather;
• versatility - skating and classic skiing;
• special geometry of the sidecut, facilitating the development of skating technique;
• NIS fastening system - quick installation without drilling and adjustment;
• affordable price.

• heavier weight (average 1.5 kg) than professional models (average 1 kg);
• must be stored in a dry place at room temperature away from heat sources.

Features Racing Fischer SC Combi NIS 2017

• cross-country skiing in any weather;
• skating and classic style.

• toe - 41, waist - 44 mm, heel - 44 mm;
• size - 182-202 cm;
• weight - 1380 g (182 cm);
• fastening type - NIS;
• rigidity - high;
• gender - unisex;
• material - wood, composite materials;
• edges - Power Layer thickness of 0.2 mm along the entire length of ultra-light laminate, reinforcing the structure and guaranteeing the necessary torsional rigidity;
• core - lightweight with basalt fibers Air Channel Basalight, maintaining the same rigidity at different temperatures;

With the onset of the most fabulous and magical time of the year, it would be worth considering what you can do with yourself in winter? What is only worth playing snowballs, sledding, skating and, of course, skiing. Why not bring to life the best moments of the past? Today, the shelves of shops with ski equipment are clogged with various products, so the question is more acute than ever: how to choose skis, mountain or cross-country?

How to choose the right skis: we decide on the style of riding

Before you go shopping in a specialized store, you should decide what style of riding you own.

If you're new to skiing and want to get a pair of skis to explore the winter forest, then most likely your skiing style is classic. This style is inherent in almost all people who start skiing.

The second style is skating. A skier in this style resembles a skater, pushing off the inside of the track from the snow. This view implies a wide track and dense snow.

Having set yourself the goal of how to choose skis for a beginner, do not try to appropriate the riding style of a pro, as it will be problematic to move through a snowy forest on skis for skating.

Going to the mountains: what skis to choose?

Skis for skiing in mountainous areas are called mountain skis. According to the target audience, they are of several types:

• professional- the name speaks for itself, this type is designed for professionals. They are marked with the English word "Sport". For buyers of such skis, there is no question of how to choose skiing right. These are people who have been riding for years and have professional riding skills. Professional alpine skis are very light in weight, but the most expensive in price;

• amateur skiing- this type of ski is also sports and is marked "Fitness". Such skis should be chosen by people who ski not so long ago and do not consider themselves professionals in skiing. They are much heavier in weight than professional skis, but also more affordable;

• tourist or "Touring"- this type is designed for long and difficult tourist trips. The width of tourist skis is much larger than the rest, as well as the weight, which sometimes reaches 1.5 kg. In their structure, they are more rigid, often come with notches to avoid slippage;

• pleasure- they are slightly similar in appearance to touring skis, but are lighter in weight. Pleasure skis are intended for short skiing over short distances on snow-covered plains, beginners can choose them;

• children or teenagers- this type is marked with the word "Junior". They are often made of plastic; skis of this type have fasteners for a regular boot. Such skis are light and comfortable for a child to ride, it is a pleasure to choose from the range of this series of skis.

How to choose skiing according to a person's height

Before choosing skis, pay attention to their length or, as they say, size. If a person is a beginner and is not confident in his abilities in skiing, then it is better to take skis at the rate of minus 20 cm from the person’s height.

A person with an average level of training should pay attention to skis, the length of which is 10 cm less than his height. Professionals choose alpine skiing according to their height or 10-15 cm less.

Choosing the right cross-country and skating skis

Purchase ski equipment only in specialized stores, check for certificates of conformity of goods to European standards.

Before proceeding with advice, how to choose skis cross-country and skating, it is necessary to clarify what kind of ride they are suitable for. Cross-country skis are designed for fast riding over short distances, they are light, smooth, and gliding.

Skating skis are the toughest, their main visual difference is that they do not have a corner bent up.

How to choose cross-country skis

• To choose cross-country skiing follows individual parameters, such as: height, weight, professional skills and, of course, financial capabilities.

• Cross-country skis are selected at the rate of +15, 20, 25 cm to a person's height.

• The weight of skis and poles should not be too large. Cross-country skiing involves a fast pace of skiing, pay attention to these parameters, as they are very important.

How to choose skate skis

• Skis for skating must be rigid, since when moving, the block of the ski track must spring back and push the skier forward. This type has a blunt, not bent toe, and the length of the ski track should exceed the height of a person by 17-20 cm.

• Determine hardness. Place two ski tracks vertically, with the sliding surface towards each other and, squeezing the pads with all your might, look at the gap between them. If the clearance is 3-4 mm, then these skis will suit you. If only 1-2 mm, then it is better to refuse the purchase due to insufficient rigidity.

How to choose skis by height? The table will help determine the length of skis and sticks for skiing an adult.

How to choose skis and poles for the height of the child

Children's and teenage skis should first of all be soft, which will allow the child to quickly learn to ride and get the most out of riding. Many parents, in an effort to save money, purchase skis for their children for growth.

Longer skis are harder to manage, the child may not be able to cope, and this will push him away from the desire to ride. When choosing skis for a child who is just learning to ride, you need to calculate the size of the skis according to the weight of the child: if the weight is about 20 kg, then the length of the skis should be 70 cm, 20-30 kg - it is better for the child to buy 90 cm skis.

« How to choose skis child so that he does not get injured while riding them? This question worries many parents. If skis and equipment are chosen correctly, then the child will feel comfortable on the ski slope, and the likelihood of injury will be significantly reduced.

It should be noted that it is not at all necessary to buy expensive skis for a child to ride. Children grow up and are often not advanced professionals in skiing, the feeling that loved ones are nearby and doing a joint activity is much more important for them.

This table will help you choose the right length of skis and sticks for skiing a child:

Making the right choice: wood or plastic

wooden e is a classic and ecological type of ski, proven over the years. The disadvantages of wooden skis include the fact that they are not as slippery as plastic ones. In addition, they weigh significantly more.

plastic skis more practical and modern. They benefit in operation under various weather conditions and snow conditions. If snow makes it difficult to ski on wooden skis at above zero temperatures, then plastic will pass this test with a bang.

In addition, plastic skis are durable, they do not deform like wooden ones from moisture and dampness.

Take it, tell your friends!

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If you are skiing for the first time, or how to spend a minimum of money and get the most out of skiing.

Introductory part. Who is this article for? What is this article for.

There are conferences on the Internet dedicated to cross-country skiing. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly beginners in skiing, ask me questions about the choice of equipment. Over time, answers have accumulated that I wanted to somehow arrange.

This article should answer the main questions that arise in a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and who does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after this, a lot of time passes, inventory, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate in this modern abundance. Unfortunately, there are not always qualified salespeople in stores who are able to answer questions in detail. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, - "I was in the AAA store yesterday. I did not receive a response to a single question. They have no catalog and consultants." or "I was in the BBB store in the summer. I "tortured" the seller for an hour. I did not find out anything except the price." In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to "unwind" the buyer to buy more expensive inventory, this sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.

I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and at the same time get the maximum pleasure from skiing for yourself and your family.

Ski selection

Still plastic...

First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Now skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in ski construction). A person who rides on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong kickback that turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. A person is perplexed - on pieces of wood I would have left for N kilometers long ago, but here I have to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It is especially disappointing if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons into a humiliating crawl for him, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden ones. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, the tree is pretty disheveled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared with HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only a little warmer ointment was sometimes added under the block. These two factors ensured the absence of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, recoil on plastic skis can be avoided, but we'll talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding qualities, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it’s not worth even trying to go into positive temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.

Start with the classics

When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you ski at and what style you are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different inventory. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness as optimal for a classic move, then skating on them will be, let's say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in classic shoes, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually skinned. Skate shoes require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are completely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And for classic ones, it is contraindicated to lubricate the block with paraffin. If then a holding ointment is applied to this paraffin (or even its remnants), then it will come off very quickly. In general, you should not combine incompatible. (But at the same time, you should not shy away from the word "universal" - these are completely normal skis, just select the length and stiffness according to the style of skiing).

Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The skate requires wide prepared tracks, and there are not many of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many more places to ride. Also, keep in mind that prepared skating tracks are most often laid along difficult terrain with large ascents and descents - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It is not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route, you can “get up” after the second or third ascent. And you can’t drag your family along such a highway with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating track near you, consider yourself lucky. In this case, the skating style is definitely worth a try.)

What skis to choose for a beginner?

First, about prices. Racing skis standing on top model range well-known brands such as Fischer, Atomik, Madshus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $200 and $350. Inexpensive domestic ones like STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $35. Mass (amateur) models of famous brands cost around 70-100 dollars. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your "image". You will be able to keep within 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training, you yourself will understand what you need and where to move. The exception is if you have a lot of weight, say, over 70 kg. The main trouble with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to choose among them suitable for your weight. Here you have to move to a different price range, and choose mass models of famous brands. We will return to this issue below.

What is the difference between branded skis and those made here in Russia? The quality of top models of well-known brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. These skis, intended for high-class competitive skiers, are made in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company itself is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is modeled on a computer. Before being put into production, new developments are carefully tested by qualified athletes. In the manufacture, expensive materials are used, often coming from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high, all skis undergo extensive testing on special computerized stands. All this together allows you to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" Nos. 17, 10 and other issues. However, manufacturers make most of their money on mass-market skis, which require much more than elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's take an analogy with computers. It's no secret that the components for mass production of even such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others are mostly manufactured in Southeast Asia, for example, in Taiwan. With mass skiing, a similar story. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of various brands, including under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by Fischer), and we have the STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis for Madshus, Karhu, Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as well as inexpensive Madshus and Karhu ski poles. And own skis and sticks under the STC brand differ from them mainly appearance and lower price.

Now more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass, designed for amateurs. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are incompatible, such as the weight of the ski and their rigidity. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from powder in the process of sintering under pressure and at high temperature. Such a porous plastic is harder, and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to stick for a long time. long distances. In addition, different weather conditions and course preparation place different demands on skis. Therefore, in the world of racing skis, specialization is common, which allows you to achieve the best glide in certain conditions, but at the same time forces you to have several pairs of skis. There are models specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft slopes, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 more, because the skis are produced for skate and for the classics). In addition, designers compete in such parameters of skis as torsional stiffness, course stability, vibration damping and ski handling during fast gliding on descents and others. An analogy with the world of cars is appropriate here. There are many good cars that allow you to drive quickly and comfortably on various roads in different weather. But as soon as it comes to competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises the need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, tires for specific surfaces and weather conditions, fine tuning of the suspension for each track and rubber, and a host of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis show their exceptional qualities best on specially prepared tracks. Just as it is difficult to imagine racing a McLaren along the roads near Moscow, so you should not expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken, loose track trodden in the nearest forest. Simpler models are more appropriate here.

Amateur (mass) skis are versatile and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are slightly heavier. For example, if the weight of a pair of racing skis is about 1 kg, then amateur skis weigh an average of 1.4 - 1.5 kg. Inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not stay on the ski for so long. But it does not really matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in the article by Ivan Kuzmin "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of a ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of skis, 20% are determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of skis and the last 20% are determined by ski lubrication. Therefore, having successfully selected skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving performance, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.

Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis is that if you mainly walk through the forest with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier, and buy yourself racing models, then these simple skis will remain with you for the first and last snow, on which it is a pity to tear expensive skis.

There are skis with a notch under the block. They seem to hold up well in soft snow. And they are attractive because, as buyers often believe, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I would not advise such, unless you really don’t want to mess with lubrication at all. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, ordinary ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without a notch are more versatile. The notch will work well on medium-soft tracks, but not on packed hard (or icy) or loose tracks. And ordinary skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out, and the holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, taking or not taking notched skis is a matter of taste.

How to choose skis

As written above, the weight deflection determines the driving performance of the ski by 60%. Therefore, the selection of skis for this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of the pressure of the ski on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called the ski diagram. Here is a typical picture for classic skis (ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com):

The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow with increasing load at about half the weight of the skier, when the skier is riding on two skis. In the lower part, the distribution of pressure when pushing with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating skis, the picture will be different, since they should not have a maximum pressure under the block during the push (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):

That is, skating skis should be stiffer than classic ones for the same skier.

A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the applied effort. Otherwise, excessive pressure on the snow may appear in certain areas of the ski, which will lead to ski braking and rapid lubrication in these areas. Here are the drawings from the article by V. Smolyanov (Journal of Drugs No. ...).

You can check the ski diagram only on rather sophisticated equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of the skis.

So, you've come to the store... Let's assume that you have already decided on the style of skiing, price range and, possibly, models of skis.

The course of action may be as follows:

1. Look for a few pairs of skis that suit your length. For classic skis, the length should be the height of the skier + 25-30 cm, for skating, the height of the skier + 10-15 cm.

2. Check ski geometry. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense, put them aside). At the same time, do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but verify". Look along the ski from the side of the sliding surface. The ski should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should not be a "screw" - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.

Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform smooth bend without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.

3. Pick up skis according to stiffness.
For classics, the most correct definition of stiffness is this: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers by the sidewalls). Lay them parallel to each other on a FLAT floor with a sliding surface (if the store allows you to do this, take newspapers just in case). If the skis have straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (the skis are not made using CAP (cap) technology), then it’s easy to check the floor - put the ski on its side, it should fit snugly against semi. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote the "Short course of the Skiing discipline" of the RGAFK: "Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces are under the cargo part (a distance of 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the mount (which means about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the skier is standing on them with both feet. In the event that the skier transfers his body weight to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski must be in contact with the floor. " In practice, this is easy to check - one person is on skis, and the second leads under the block with a thin sheet of paper. When you are standing on both skis, the places where the paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the block. If you transfer the weight to one ski, then the piece of paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor. Then transfer the weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor. The check with a sheet of paper can be done by one person, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when determining the length of the last.

If conditions do not allow this method to be applied, then the stiffness can be approximately determined as follows: carefully fold the skis with the sliding surface towards each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the strength of the hand approximately corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that the strength of the hand does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise the brush with an expander).

Large stores sometimes have special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.

The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another "folk" way to determine the stiffness. The average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should crush the skis with both hands until the sliding plastic under the block completely touches. If it doesn’t crush, then the skis are definitely tough for him.

For skating ski gap when compressed with one hand should be more - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the very boot the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you transferred the weight to one ski.

If you didn’t manage to pick up classic skis in terms of stiffness - those that are were a bit soft, then you can calmly look at the skis a little longer. As a rule, the longer the skis, the stiffer they are. For example, the Fisher company in mass models generally switched to a direct dependence of the length of skis on the weight of the skier. Of course, such a number will not work with skating skis, and for classic skis, the length is not so critical.

Please note that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, because without good technique they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (I mean soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described methods dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)

Then check the uniform compression of the skis. Thus, you indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the ski performance. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap above and below should decrease in proportion to the force and evenly. Usually ski toes are slightly softer than heels, so at first the gap between the ski toes decreases faster than between the heels, this is normal. As a result, the gap under the block, approximately at the place of compression, should disappear last. In this case, the skis should fit snugly against each other throughout, there should not be a gap between them. Ski socks should not diverge as they are compressed. In addition, each of the skis should bend the same way. (It happens that the skis are not matched for stiffness and at full compression one is slightly bent and the other is arched.) After bending, you should have the feeling that the tip and tail of the ski meet the definition of "elastic".

Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin's article "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in PM No. 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:

• The ski is compressed with noticeable effort from the very beginning.
• At first, the ski compresses very easily, and then a “stop” occurs; with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock in the front of the block.
• With strong compression by the owner, the skis are in contact under the block.
• With strong compression by the owner, a gap of more than 2 mm remains under the block (except for skis on ice).
  (This refers to a one-handed squeeze.)

(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to use hand compression first - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair with a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)

4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each ski from the pair. Then fold the skis together, the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally match, but a discrepancy of the order of 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you set up the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, by placing the ski on the back of a knife or the end of a thin ruler.)

5. Check the sliding surface. It should not be concave or convex in diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.

Otherwise, ski preparation will be very difficult - the iron and scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Slight deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be cycled, which requires experience and a ski machine.) To check, put a flat object at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.

There should be no obvious and major damage to the plastic - pits, bumps, delamination, etc. . Small flaws - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or stiffness). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, the skis do not have to be completely smooth. A smooth ski glides worse. Therefore, almost all skis have a "structure" on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs along the edges of new skis are removed with a fine sandpaper with light movements from the toe to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of skiing.

6. After a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.

If you, nevertheless, could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:

The STC factory uses light wood such as poplar or aspen to produce skis, and power load carry mainly laminate plates and fiberglass. Therefore, the skis are mostly soft. When I was looking for inexpensive training classic skis made by STC (under the Madshus brand) for my weight of 60 kg, I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small bubble of plastic on the tip of the ski, and a few cosmetic imperfections. But they did have the toughness. As a result, I removed the bubble with a sandpaper, and the skis turned out to be very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the brands Peltonen and Karhu. In addition, STC skis are also hiding behind sonorous names like Viking, Sable, Magnum.

Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisza skis are usually stiffer, they use stronger wood, but these skis are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to pick up skis if you are above average weight. The yew of 2001 is made very culturally, but it is also expensive.

If funds allow, then you can safely take the products of well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis costing 80-100 dollars, there is less variation in parameters and an easier choice. But all the main selection steps must be repeated with such skis.

Choice of ski boots

If funds allow, then take shoes with Rotefella NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old systems with welts. Of course, mounting these systems is not cheap. But they are worth it. If it seems to you that your budget will not allow you to spend 40-50 dollars on racing mounts, then be aware that there are excellent walking mounts that cost 20-25 dollars. The price range for boots ranges from about $50 for touring boots to about $200 for racing boots. As with skis, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. Actually, boots have little effect on skiing speed, so chasing top models is not necessary. But if you intend to try your hand at skating style, then take models for skating, with a high rigid cuff that wraps around the ankle. Or combined, similar in appearance to skating, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classics in them. Specialized mid-range models will cost more than touring boots. When choosing, pay attention primarily to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, one may be perfect for your feet. You can take shoes from models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with almost the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For skiing in the forest, hiking boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only take bindings under the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Shoes with such a sole, in fact, have only one drawback. If you walk a lot in them on asphalt, then the plastic of the sole on the toe of the boot is erased almost to the metal bracket that enters the groove of the mounts. Most likely, the bracket will not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the seal will deteriorate, and the shoes will lose their presentation. Craftsmen use various ways to protect expensive boots if it is not possible to wear them next to the ski track. One option is rubber overshoes worn over boots. Better galoshes with a soft cloth inside. Just rubber ones leave marks on a light boot or peel off paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that snow does not accumulate in them, and bury them in the snow under some kind of Christmas tree. I dress up on the way back. The second method is described in PM #16. A piece of rubber tube/hose with an inner diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the bracket and a length equal to the length of the open part of the bracket is cut in a spiral and put on (wound) on the bracket. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and placed in a pocket.

Choice of ski poles

Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. Sticks made of 100% carbon fiber are light and tough, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass sticks are not as rigid, bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range poles can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass is quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have great strength and weight.

Plastic (composite) sticks sometimes break. This can happen when falling on a stick or when relying on a stick with all your weight when you lose balance, though not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong push - I didn’t hit the axis of the stick with force - and that's it.

If your weight is high, then take stronger sticks with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bending sticks with large rings that were produced about 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.

Domestic sticks produced by STC have proven themselves well (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEIP (Ural Electro Chemical plant). For an amateur, Balakovo sticks are also a good choice, they are cheaper, but their quality is good (produced under the Volzhanka brand). Decent domestic sticks cost from 300-400 rubles.

Ski waxing

First, a few words for those who are completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised that there should be no recoil to smear back(!!!) skis.)

Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with glide lubricants.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing skis are greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you've read Swix's or other companies' materials on ski preparation, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weather paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removal with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, for half an hour at least you will be messing with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled up the carpet, then, of course, removed everything, but some remnants of paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember the kind words of his wife ... In short, we need a place where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remnants of paraffin will be smashed with their feet throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these remnants strive to stick to everything. It happens that while you are fiddling with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears at home. This is only for "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.

In order to have an idea about the process of professional ski preparation, read A. Grushin's article "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer.

Ski waxes

Lubricants come in a variety of types. The most commonly used paraffins professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive, and are consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by hauling paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you are better off buying fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with fluorine-free paraffins.

From inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you perfectly. (These greases are rolled back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small amount of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have for sunny weather No. 238 for a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather, in which it is really good, but it will go on cloudy, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once smeared in a cold way - you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very economically - enough for many years.

For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Ski waxes

Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First - the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but at the same time the ointment should allow one to slide on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment, which provides the best combination of holding and sliding, is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.

Lovers can be smeared easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluorine) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit the range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put the ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic rubbing (the so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment with you and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much - put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - warmer. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward towards the tip of the ski.) Get lubed in a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a particular region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly find the best fit.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are smearing at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.

Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home).

Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag).

In sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:

• Podlip. At transient temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter a "stick" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
• Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional temperatures of -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing right after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the uncooled ointment can quickly come off. Allow skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
• The condition of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can slow down a lot when leaving it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in shady areas such as in the woods.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, it seems that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools.

If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin's article "Use the iron correctly" in PM # ...). A good ski iron can be bought for $60-70.

New skis, regardless of whether you later use hot paraffin wax or not, it is still better to process using an iron for the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

• Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim the ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and bumps. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these corners to the groove of your skis so you can skim the wax out of the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles for different pairs. Look in the store for branded scrapers to get an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat should come out in the end.
• Nylon brush, used to remove paraffin residue after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using a hot wax application, then a brush that is hard enough is essential. For this, I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.
• Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (Actually, the residual nap will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Approximately the same in appearance household abrasive plates may contain not such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy ... Probably not necessary.
• Fiberlene (fiberlen) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.
• Sanding paper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding classic ski lasts, so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household skin will do the appropriate grit. In general, sanding under the block is necessary if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.
• Razor scraper Swix T-89, used to remove the pile - the amateur does not need it.
• Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will scrape yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be scraped. The cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And spoiling a ski during scraping is as easy as shelling pears - a hand trembled - and here is a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.
• Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. A universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.
• A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight loss of glide by using a warmer wax, you don't need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or frost accelerator that applies in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.
• Wash, used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off the sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot cleaning of the skis. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean it off.
• Rubbing (cork), used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Will definitely be needed.

Additional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be somewhere to store skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without a solvent or wash. Good domestic covers cost from 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.

Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a bag with skis on a glazed balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified ski lubrication technologies

You can read about the intricacies of applying lubricants in a hot way (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the iron correctly" from HP No. ... In particular, he does not recommend the use of household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn through the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.

You can try this method (experimented): take a metal bucket with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enamelled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Close the pot with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial processing of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with the sliding surface up, for example, on two stools.

Boiling water and a well-conducting ladle are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin in this way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools down. Make several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.

One more way. Paraffin can be applied by intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, then lightly go through with a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin bar (this is convenient to control by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then go lightly brushing from the toe to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, the machine is not required. On normal snow will keep at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination allegedly generates enough heat to apply the accelerators cold. It is imitated by an insole made of dense synthetic felt wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins in a cold way.

What ski wax to buy for ski preparation

Depending on the level of your training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.

Minimum.

This kit will be enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil and sticking. It is not necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Sviks) and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no recoil. For walks, believe me, this is quite enough, the skis will glide even without paraffin.

Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment covering a temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rub.

Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded wash (about 300 rubles). However, about the scraper and its substitutes was written above. You can do without flushing. As without it at all, that is, remove the old ointment with a scraper, and replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (To clean the skis clean, which, in general, is completely optional, you can use a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline. And the main "household" advantage of the wash is the absence of a strong smell.)

Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the ski track at above zero temperatures, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.

This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This kit is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable riding through the forest in any weather, but also to participate in most mass ski races such as "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash can, a plastic scraper, a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a rather advanced and trained skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in high humidity conditions). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.